By Amber R in Fashion — 01 Oct 2026

Saint Laurent Spring 2027: Anthony Vaccarello's All-Gold Collection Lit Up Paris

Anthony Vaccarello marked ten years at Saint Laurent by drenching the runway in gold, reworking three house icons for a show that closed out Paris Fashion Week.

Anthony Vaccarello marked ten years at Saint Laurent the only way he knows how: by drenching the runway in gold. The Saint Laurent Spring 2027 show closed out a strong week of Paris Fashion Week with 49 of its 59 looks built around gold in some form, from liquid lame to leaf-covered latex, and a front row stacked with Kate Moss, Zoe Kravitz and Hailey Bieber watching it happen.

Forty-nine shades of gold

The collection leaned into gold as a material, not just a colour. Vaccarello worked it through lame, brocade, lace and even leaf-covered latex, running it across silhouettes that stayed sharp even as the fabrics got more luxurious. Sharp shoulders, defined waists and precise proportions held the line through all 59 looks, gold or otherwise, which is very much the Vaccarello house style: sensuality sharpened by severity, not softened by it.

Model opening the Saint Laurent Spring 2027 show in a high-shine gold jacket and narrow skirt — The opening look: a high-shine gold jacket cinched at the waist over a narrow skirt. Image: Saint Laurent, via Marie Claire Australia

Ten years, three house codes reworked in gold

Vaccarello used the anniversary to revisit three of the house's defining pieces and remake them in gold: the trench coat that dates back to 1962, the safari jacket from 1967, and the Le Smoking tuxedo from 1966. Reworking archival codes is not new for him, but doing all three in the same show, in the same finish, turned the collection into a deliberate statement about what a decade at Saint Laurent has actually meant: keeping the codes, changing the material.

Saint Laurent Spring 2027 look with gold lace tracing floral shapes over the body — Gold lace traced floral shapes over the body, one of the softer looks in an otherwise structured collection. Image: Saint Laurent, via Marie Claire Australia

The front row Vaccarello built the show for

Kate Moss attended with her daughter Lila Moss, a pairing that has become a recurring fixture of Saint Laurent's front row in recent seasons. They sat alongside Zoe Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, Donatella Versace, Zoe Saldana, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Gabbriette, a guest list that skewed heavily toward the women who have fronted Saint Laurent campaigns and shows across Vaccarello's tenure. Charlotte Gainsbourg closed the show, a casting choice that tied the whole thing back to the label's long relationship with French music and film.

Saint Laurent Spring 2027 brocade trouser suit with dark fur cuff detailing — A brocade trouser suit with dark fur cuff detailing, one of the collection's reworked tailoring pieces. Image: Saint Laurent, via Marie Claire Australia

Where the gold stopped

The finale broke from the gold entirely. Dramatic black velvet evening gowns closed the show, finished with jewelled buttons and expansive folds of fabric, a deliberate cooldown after nearly an hour of metallic surfaces. It read less like a retreat from the gold and more like a full stop: having made the point for 59 looks, Vaccarello didn't need to keep making it into the credits.

Saint Laurent Spring 2027 finale look in dramatic black velvet with jewelled buttons — The finale broke from gold entirely, closing on black velvet with jewelled buttons and expansive folds. Image: Saint Laurent, via Marie Claire Australia

What it means for spring

A head-to-toe gold look is not a realistic takeaway for most wardrobes, and it isn't really the point. What Vaccarello's anniversary show signals is a mood: opulent, maximalist dressing after several quieter seasons across the industry. For Australian readers heading into warmer months, that translates more sensibly into a single gold accessory (a bag, a belt, a cuff) against an otherwise plain outfit, or a metallic-finish fabric worked into one piece rather than the whole look. The trench coat and safari jacket references are also worth watching for how they filter down into more wearable versions over the next few seasons, since both are pieces Saint Laurent revisits often when it wants to sell a specific idea to a wider audience.

At a glance:

Show: Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027, Paris Fashion Week
Date and venue: 30 September 2026, Trocadero, Paris
Collection: 59 looks, 49 built around gold
Milestone: Anthony Vaccarello's 10th anniversary as creative director
Front row: Kate Moss and Lila Moss, Zoe Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, Donatella Versace, Zoe Saldana
Closing look: Charlotte Gainsbourg

Verdict: Vaccarello didn't just dress the front row in gold, he built a decade-anniversary statement around it. Opulent, controlled and unmistakably Saint Laurent.